Saturday, June 20, 2009

Cultural Observations from Tanzania: Greetings

(See also (Cultural Observations from Tanzania – Hands”)

When expressing closeness and hugging, you always start on the left and go to the right in a double hug. This is the opposite of western habits to hug on the right and so when I forget I almost bonk heads. A woman I know that is used to westerners has adapted.

When a younger person greets an older person, they say shikamu. It is an untranslatable greeting that means, “hello, respect, blessings”. In return, the older responds in kind with “marahaba”. One of the most poignant moments in my life was being spontaneously surrounded by dozens of kindergartners who laid hands on me and shikamu-ed me in a blessing.

A stranger on the street may randomly greet you and genuinely invite you into a conversation to share your news. I experience this with an elderly woman recently, with my driver saving me with a “no news” statement. Often I am in conversation with someone and a few others will choose to come and listen, shake my hand and enter the conversation. To a westerner, this is at first a little uncomfortable. But with a little experience you learn that many people have genuine interest and maybe a little curiosity about the mzungu (white person) among them.

Especially in villages, people are honored to have someone from a distant place among them. My driver explained, ‘They want to hear your voice, see you, and ask questions.’ When I attend Sunday services, I am always afforded a place of honor and asked to speak at some point during the service. I am learning to be prepared for these events and not to feel uncomfortable in a position of honor that to me seems much undeserved.

Children take a special interest in wazungu (white people). They often call out “Mzungu! Mzungu!” as I pass. They love to shake my hand – even when I am jogging. If I stop and crouch down by them some of the less shy children want to touch my hair and my skin. Again my driver explained to me, the pink appearance looks like an animal that has been skinned – the muscle is bare! Sometimes they are torn between terror and curiosity. One young boy followed me everywhere in a village slowly getting closer. If I would turn and look at him he would scream and run away crying – only to return soon.

“Karibu” (pr. caribou) meaning ‘you are welcome’, and its counterpart, ”asante” (pr. a-saun-tay) – ‘thank you’, are said constantly. Either can come first. “Karibu” can also mean you are welcome to begin something, enter, sit down, etc. For example, a person inviting you to enter their home or business will say, “karibu”.

Asante!

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